A to Z Index

Fleas

Description

There are many different types of fleas, however the most commonly treated are the cat/dog flea.

Biology and Habitat

Fleas pass through a complete metamorphosis life cycle consisting of egg, larva, pupa and adult.  A typical flea population consists of 50 % eggs, 35 % larvae, 10 % pupae and 5 % adults.   Completion of the life cycle from egg to adult varies from two weeks t eight months, depending on the temperature, humidity, food and species.  Normally, after a blood meal, the female flea lays about 15 - 20 eggs per day, up to 600 in a lifetime, usually on the host (dogs, cats etc.).  Eggs loosely laid in the hair coat can drop off almost anywhere that the host visits, but especially where the host rests and/or sleeps (rugs, carpets, upholstered furniture, cat or dog boxes, kennels etc.).  Eggs hatch in two days  to two weeks into larvae found indoors in floor cracks and crevices, along baseboards, under rug edges and in furniture or beds.

Larvae are blind, avoid light, pass through three larval phases and take a week to several months to develop.  Their food consists of digested blood from adult flea faeces, dead skin, hair, feathers and other organic debris (larvae do not suck blood).

Pupa matures to adulthood within a silken cocoon woven by the larva to which pet hair, carpet fibre, dust and other debris adheres.  In about five to fourteen days, adult fleas emerge or may remain resting in the cocoon until the detection of vibration (pet and people movement), heat, noise or carbon dioxide (meaning a potential blood source is near).

Adult fleas cannot survive or lay eggs without a blood meal, but may survive for up to one year without feeding.

There is often a desperate need for flea control after a house has been empty for a period of time or when there are no longer any household pets for the fleas to feed on and the fleas start to attack humans.  Optimum temperatures for the flea's life cycle are 70 - 85 degrees Fahrenheit and optimum humidity is 70 %.

Importance

Fleas can be vectors of disease, although this is uncommon in the UK.

Control

Flea control is best achieved with a simultaneous, co-ordinated effort involving strict cleaning, pet treatment and premise treatment.

Before treatment, discuss the pet’s habits with family members to determine where resting and sleeping occurs most frequently.

Before vacuuming, all items (toys, shoes, clothes etc.) should be removed from the floor, under beds etc. to ensure best access for treatment.  Also, cover fish tanks, remove birdcages, pet food and water dishes and wash or dry clean any pet bedding.  Vacuuming carpet with a  beater-bar type vacuum where the pet rests and sleeps will help control the flea larvae by removing eggs and dried blood faeces (larval food), plus opening up the carpet’s nap for a more effective insecticide treatment.  The vacuum bag should be replaced and the used bag disposed.

Pets should be treated using a recognised, safe product obtainable form a veterinary practice.

The treatments available for use in flea infestations include the use of Ultra Low Volume (ULV) space spray through a micro gen machine, this is useful in empty houses or houses without carpets.  Smoke bombs are also useful in those situations.  The preferred method in occupied houses is a wet spray solution, using a recognised insecticide, paying particular attention to the areas around the skirting boards (areas where the host pet spends a lot of its time at rest) and any reported areas of activity.

Safety

All pesticides used by Bath & North East Somerset Council are approved substances under the Control of Pesticides Regulations 1986 and are fully risk assessed.