Loft conversions
Sound insulation
In a terraced or semi-detached house, the separating wall needs
to be able to resist the passage of sound, irrespective of whether
or not the neighbouring house has a habitable room in the roof
(sound can travel through the wall into your neighbour's roof void
and through the ceiling, and vice-versa).
Walls
If the existing wall is
- 225mm (9") coursed brick or stone,
- 2 leaves of 100mm thick brick or dense blockwork with 50mm
cavity, or
- 2 leaves of 100mm thick aerated concrete blockwork with 75mm
cavity,
then this will be adequate if lined with 12.5mm plaster or
plasterboard. All gaps and holes in the wall need to be filled
prior to plastering or plasterboarding.
If the existing separating wall is not adequate, then the best
solution is a separate timber stud wall.
- The existing wall should be rendered with sand & cement to
seal any gaps,
- 50mm x 50mm timber stud wall, fixed only to the floor and roof
structure (not to the wall) at least 13mm from the face of the
wall,
- The perimeter of the wall should be sealed with tape or
mastic,
- Mineral fibre at least 50mm thick between studs,
- Lining of 2 layers of 12.5mm plasterboard on the room side
only, with joints staggered.
If there is more than one room in the loft, then any of the
following walls will need to be sound insulated:
- any wall between a bedroom and another room or bedroom;
and
- any wall between a WC and another room (but not if the WC is an
en-suite to a bedroom).
This can be achieved by installing mineral fibre (at least 25mm
thick) between the studs.
Floors
The new floor needs at least the following sound insulation
measures:
- Floor boarding of at least 22mm thick chipboard, or at least
28mm thick softwood floorboards, and
- 100mm thick mineral fibre between the joists.
If there is a new ceiling under the floor, then it needs to be
at least 12.5mm thick plasterboard.
As with thermal insulation, the mineral fibre should not be
compressed to fit into a gap, as this reduces its
effectiveness