In the House
Early planning will help:
- Decide collectively as a family which parts of the house are
"no go areas" for the dog; for instance he can be trained never to
set foot on carpeted areas, sit on the settee, or never go
upstairs. Make sure that no member of the family encourages the dog
to break the rules.
- Never allow a young puppy the free run of the house. Restrict
it to easily cleaned areas unless you can keep it under close
observation.
- Do not expect a puppy or a young dog to be 100 per cent
obedient. If you are not present to warn him about committing
offences. Be realistic about the amount of good behaviour you can
expect from an unsupervised dog.
- Above all, avoid putting the dog into a situation where he can
spoil articles you value or commit other behavioural errors.
Prevention is always better than cure.
It is normal for adult dogs to have the very occasional accident
but this should not occur regularly. Puppies cannot be expected to
be clean for long periods until they are six months old. In an
older dog consider:
- Is the night to long? Eight to ten hours shut in may be as long
as the dog can take.
- Are there early morning disturbances by milkmen etc.? Once the
dog is awake he may need to be let out.
- Does the dog actually pass urine and faeces when he is let out
last thing at night? You may need to accompany him in order to
encourage him to concentrate on these actions until they become
habits.
- Will an alteration in diet and/or feeding times make any
improvement?
- Does the dog suffer from some condition affecting the digestive
or urinary systems? A veterinary consultation will be necessary to
decide.
- Does the floor of the dogs sleeping place retain the smell of
urine and faeces to that he is confused as to what is the right
place? Cleaning with a strong solution of bleach, which should be
left on the floor for ten minutes and then rinsed with plain water,
should eliminate residue smells.
Consider:
Providing the dog with a closed wire crate in which to sleep if
all else fails, provided he is not left enclosed more than eight
hours at night and four to five hours during the day.
Immediate reaction:
Whose fault was it?
Yours for not giving the dog the opportunity to go out at the
appropriate time?
His for not asking to go out or refusing to perform when taken
out?
Neither. If the dog is old or ill, or has had diarrhoea, these
episodes must be executed.
Immediate action:
- Pick up solid material with kitchen paper and put into
newspaper for disposal.
- Mop up pool of urine into a bucket with special sponge/cloth
kept for the purpose.
- Wash floor with detergent cleaner, which does not contain
ammonia.
- Rinse and wash over with water containing
disinfectant.
Note. Stages three and four must be separate operations;
disinfectant is useless on a soiled floor. While performing actions
one to four express your disapproval facially and verbally if the
accident has been the dog's fault. Smacking or other chastising is
inappropriate, while the old fashioned "rubbing his nose in it"
does nothing but reveal an ignorance of the dog's natural
functions.
Prevention:
Re-think the dogs routine and provide more opportunities for it
to go out to the garden -e.g. dog flap in door. If the dog is to be
left so long that elimination is inevitable, cover an area of the
floor thickly with newspaper. If illness is suspected, consult the
veterinary surgeon.
Immediate action:
- Blot up urine with kitchen paper or, if copious amounts, by
laying sheets of newspaper on the pool, weighting them down and
changing them frequently as they become saturated.
- Clean the area with carpet cleaner, which does not contain
ammonia.
- Dry with iron, hair drier, or hot water bottle.
Prevention:
Review the dog's routine as above but establish whose fault it
was.
Immediate action:
- Note consistency and content in case of illness.
- Pick up with kitchen paper, put into newspaper and
dispose.
- Wash and dry quickly as above to avoid staining.
- Endeavour to remove the smell, as puppies in particular may
return to the same spot.
Immediate action:
- Observe colour and contents of the vomit, and any foreign
bodies therein, since veterinary attention may be required.
- Prevent the dog re-eating vomit.
- Pick up solid matter with kitchen paper and put in to newspaper
for disposal.
- Wash area of carpet with warm water and biological washing
powder, having first tested the carpet for colourfastness to the
washing powder chosen. Dry with hair drier or iron
- If vomiting continues contact your vet.
Prevention:
A dog, which is vomiting frequently, should be surrounded with
newspaper on top of plastic sheeting. Clean the face and chest of a
longhaired dog. A bib made out of towelling will prevent further
soiling.
Practically all-male dogs recognise the odour of a bitch in
season, as indeed nature intended them to do.
It is almost a cruelty to keep a male dog in the same house as
an "in-season" bitch and they will almost certainly evade your
attempts to keep them apart, as during the middle-third of her
season, the bitch is just as eager to meet the dog as he is to find
her.
The dog may refuse to eat, and become thin and poor-coated
through frustration. Tempers become frayed and fights may ensue
with other males.
Immediate Action:
Proprietary pills and lotions are generally ineffective in
masking the bitch odour. Either bitch or dog must be boarded
elsewhere.
Subsequent Action:
Consult a veterinary surgeon about the prevention of heat on a
temporary or permanent basis. Spaying or chemical methods are
available. Castration of the male may be effective but he may still
show some mating behaviour.
The amount of bloodstained discharge when in season varies from
bitch to bitch. Some bitches will lick themselves much more
frequently when in season and so cause little problem, other
bitches are not so meticulous.
Immediate Action:
- Use salted Cold water to soak the stain out of fabrics.
- Wash in biological washing powder.
- Clean floor and carpets in similar manner.
Prevention:
- Confine bitch to easily washed areas while she is in
season.
- Cover furniture with old sheets or similar cotton
material.
- Consider fitting the bitch up with sanitary pads and knickers,
which can be bought at pet shops or improvised at home.
- If the bitch is not to be bred from, consider eliminating all
the nuisance of seasons. Consult your veterinary surgeon about the
prevention of heat by spaying or chemical means.
Dog hair varies tremendously in the way it adheres to other
fabrics. Really long hair can be easier to remove than the short
hair shed by Bull Terriers, Dobermans and similar coated dogs.
You may find the following useful:
- Stroking furniture and clothing with a rubber glove on the
hand.
- Sellotape wrapped around the fingers, sticky side outmost, and
stroked over fabric pile.
- Brushing with a damp nailbrush; wiping with a damp
cloth.
All these methods roll the hairs together and make them easier
to remove. A special attachment for the vacuum cleaner, obtainable
at pet shops, is available which can be helpful although some
vacuum cleaners are extremely powerful and will do the job without
any attachments.
Prevention:
Groom the dog frequently - daily when hair is being shed in
quantities.
If hair is being shed excessively or throughout the whole year
have the dog checked for possible underlying skin or hormonal
upset.
Discuss the dogs diet with your veterinary surgeon to ensure
especially that it is getting sufficient B vitamins and unsaturated
fatty acids.
Immediate Action:
Try to identify what has been eaten in case the dog later
becomes ill.
Subsequent Action:
Empty or remove the rubbish bin before you go out. Train the dog
that it must never touch the bin.
Prevention:
Reinforce the behaviour while working in the kitchen by having
the rubbish bin prominently placed and standing open. Admonish the
dog by saying "NO" and/or banging a saucepan on the sink
immediately the bin is approached.
Immediate Action:
Be extremely careful of using any inflammable liquid, such as
petrol or carbon tetrachloride, on the dog's coat. It may be
preferable to cut off as much of the effected hair as possible, and
then to wash the dog in mild detergent and/or canine shampoo,
finishing with a plain water rinse. It can be helpful to apply sun
tan cream, first working it well into the effected area and then
washing it off with warm water containing a "soft" detergent, such
as washing up liquid.
Many older dogs take on a new lease of life when a new puppy is
brought into the home, provided certain precautions are taken early
on:
- Get the puppy as young as possible. At six weeks puppies are
confident and unafraid, but by eight weeks the puppy may be
entering a "fear period" and may be much more difficult to
acclimatise.
- Allow the older dog to become accustomed to the puppy while you
are present, and then allow brief periods of free socialisation,
always supervised
- It may be helpful to make an enclosure for the puppy in which
it can be left safely for the first few weeks in your home when you
are not present. Panels sold to enclose compost heaps are ideal for
the purpose.
- Protect the older dog's rights. Do not allow the puppy to make
free with its toys, its bed or its food. It can be helpful to
remove the most favoured canine possessions at this time to prevent
problems.
- Make sure the older dog has a full share of attention, and
always give a small titbit every time the puppy is fed - older dogs
are fed less frequently than puppies.
- Do not leave the two alone when you are absent until they are
at ease with one another - a good indication is if the pair choose
to share a bed.
- Puppies can bite an older dog's feet and ears quite painfully.
Most adults growl and snap to warn a puppy that such behaviour is
not permitted, but some puppies do not heed the warning and some
adults are to vigorous in their reaction, so some humane
intervention is sometimes needed
- Consult your veterinary surgeon about taking the older dog to
canine gatherings, or to places where many dogs are exercised,
until after the puppy is vaccinated.
Jealousy of new babies is very uncommon, despite the fears of
new parents.
A well-kept healthy dog is unlikely to be a disease risk to the
baby. It is a sad thing to discard a dog which has been a good
friend to you and will in the future be a good friend to the child,
and it is a pity that this action is often urged on new parents by
relatives and friends who are prejudiced against dogs.
Jealousy should not occur if you plan the introduction of the
dog to the baby with care, assuming that, you have already taught
your dog good companion animal behaviour. The following tips may
help:
- Let the dog sit beside you when the baby is attended to and
talk to the dog as usual.
- The baby's cry may be a completely new sound to the dog, and
may convey a distress message to him. Teach the dog that it may
look but not touch or jump up to cot or pram.
- If the dog is large and vigorous, make arrangements for it to
have sufficient exercise, as walking with a pram may not be
enough.
- It can be dangerous to tie a dog to a pram and leave it
unsupervised.
- Discourage the dog from licking the baby.
- Do not let young babies pull the dog's ears or tail.
- Provide a place into which the dog can retreat away from the
baby.
- Never leave the dog alone with the baby, especially when the
baby is at the crawling stage. Remember that dogs, especially large
dogs, can be very vigorous in play.
- Do not tempt providence by letting the baby play and crawl
around the dogs feeding bowl. The dog should be fed separately and
any food that is left must be picked up without delay.
- Make a gesture of giving the dog extra attention once the baby
has been put to bed - give it a few privileges at this time.
- Take the baby or the dog with you if you have to leave the room
even for a few moments. It is better to be safe than
sorry.
Some puppies seem to object strongly to anything around their
neck, but body harnesses are not a good idea.
Try the following strategy. Put the collar and lead on
immediately before feeding the dog. Put the food on the far side of
the room where the dog can see it. Hold the lead while the dog goes
over to the food and let it trail while the dog is eating. Repeat
at several meal times so that the dog is diverted from fighting the
collar and associates collar and lead with something pleasant.
Puppies have an in-built need to chew, which reaches its peak at
six to ten months old, although many are compulsive chewers from
six weeks old. The trick is to prevent this problem arising by
giving only a limited number of "toys" that the dog can chew. It is
not a good idea to give an old slipper or a brush, since the dog
will not be able to distinguish between that or new shoes from
useful brushes. Chew-objects should be unrelated to household
items
Prevention:
- Set up a situation where the puppy will be tempted to chew an
item that it normally should not. When the puppy starts to chew
that item punish it by a well-directed thrown object (something
firm but soft) and the verbal command of 'NO', direct the puppies
attention to his own chews, when it starts to chew the correct item
make a big fuss over the puppy and give it lots of praise.
- If this fails consider confinement in a wire crate for short
periods when you cannot watch the puppy, and put temporary
protection around fixed pieces of furniture, e.g. metal angle strip
around corners of cupboards, a sheet of Perspex or aluminium on the
lower half of doors.
- Finally, anti chew sprays can be bought at most pet shops - the
most expensive ones are very effective, the cheaper varieties are
not. (Bitter Apple is the brand that works.) However it is much
better in the long term to train the dog that chewing leads to
punishment and that not chewing is more rewarding.
- A puppy may chew in order to ease pain in the mouth caused by
teething. Consider rubbing on a soothing gel made to ease teething
in babies. The veterinary surgeon may be able to help in such
cases.
Dogs can become very fond of the household cat, even those that
are chronic chasers of unfamiliar cats. A little strategy used at
the time of introduction of the kitten makes the foundation for an
easy relationship.
- Bring the kitten into the house in a wire-carrying basket so
that the dog can become accustomed to the scent and look of the
kitten.
- Give the kitten an escape route so that it can sit on a high
cupboard out of the dog's reach.
- Put the kittens sanitary tray and food where the dog cannot
interfere; dogs are attracted to cats faeces.
- Do not leave the two together until you are sure a mutual
respect has developed.
- Most kittens can take very good care of themselves against one
dog, but "pack" action by several dogs is a greater risk.
- Finally praise the dog and give it delectable food rewards when
it behaves properly towards the cat, but admonish it promptly if it
chases the cat or objects to its presence.
Individual adult animals take additions to the household in a
variety of ways, and it is not possible to predict how the cat will
react.
Many cats will be reserved and sulky at first but most will come
to accept the situation and will soon be sharing their bed with the
newcomer.
Some cats resort to urine-marking indoors to express their
displeasure at any change in the household. Judicious preparation
for the new arrival will help.
- Well ahead of the puppies arrival, put the cat's sanitary tray
and feeding area in a place the puppy cannot reach.
- Provide a comfortable sitting area for the cat on a high
level.
- Make sure the cat is clear of fleas and ear mites, as these are
transmissible to dogs.
- If you have a cat door, you may wish to keep it closed while
the puppy is young and to train the cat to use a window
instead.
Puppies should be made to submit to grooming and having various
parts of their anatomy examined from the first day in the new home,
even if they have very little coat at that time.
Either groom the dog on the floor or put something on the
tabletop that will not slip about and which the dog can grip. An
old piece of rubber-backed carpet is ideal. Some people advocate
putting the dog on a slippery table surface to make it feel
insecure and so likely to remain quiet. If this approach is adopted
be very careful that the dog does not slip off the table and injure
itself. One problem with this method is that the dog will tend to
crouch low making grooming difficult.
If grooming is done regularly it will be unnecessary to have
long and painful disentangling sessions. The correct grooming tools
and the use of "disentangling" rinses makes the process easier.
Consult the dog's breeder or ask for advice at a pet shop or
grooming parlour.
Remember to praise the dog for good behaviour and punish it
effectively if it growls or makes a fuss. If the dog shows a
tendency to misbehave or even snap in such situations go through
the dominance exercises.
It is important to practise tablet giving from the time you have
the puppy. Put small vitamin/mineral supplement tablets
deliberately down the throat, although they are actually palatable
enough for the puppy to eat them.
Actual medicinal tablets are much more satisfactory given in the
throat whole, than crushed on food or disguised in other ways.
Do it this way:
- Cup your fingers around the puppies muzzle, open the top jaw by
pressing the lips in the gap just in front of the carnassial teeth
in the upper jaw and slip your thumb, protected by the dogs lips,
behind the large canine tooth on the side nearest to you.
- With the opposite hand, open the mouth, wide by pressing down
on the incisors with your little or fourth finger, pop the pill
onto the centre of the tongue as far back in the mouth as you can.
If the tablet is put in the right place the dog will have no option
but to swallow it.
- Hold the mouth closed and stroke the throat until the dog
swallows the pill, then praise the dog and release it.
Some dogs with loose flews (jowls) cannot help saliva running
out of their jaws. Tantalising a dog with food increases the
tendency to drool.
Action:
Allow the saliva to dry on clothing, then brush with a stiff
brush or rub the two surfaces of the cloth together.
Subsequent action:
Protect unsuitably dressed visitors with a clean cloth to put
across their laps or make the dog stay in its basket or bed.
Many people like to offer their finger for the puppy to bite,
but when the habit is established, elderly people with prominent
veins and fragile skin may not enjoy the sensation.
Action:
The command "No" accompanied by grabbing the dog's scruff, and
lifting its front paws off the ground should deter the puppy. Give
the dog its own chew object in exchange.
Ask other members of the family not to encourage hand
biting.
It is very difficult to impress tiny children about what is
unkind, cruel or dangerous, when they are at the stage of exploring
and developing their own skills. Many dogs will tolerate bad
treatment from children, which they would not endure from anyone
else.
The dog should always have some escape route so that it can
remove itself if the persecution becomes too trying.
Discreet supervision is always necessary.
If the dog is longhaired check the coat regularly to make sure
that rubber bands have not been put around neck or legs, or other
objects have not been attached to the coat.
Keep small plastic toys away from the dog - if swallowed they
may cause an obstruction in the digestive system.
All dog-owning households should be covered for Third Party
liability as a social necessity. A dog that chases sheep or trips
up an old lady may incur its owner many thousands of pounds of
damage.
Similarly, damage done in someone else's house or car may be
covered by this policy. Some insurance companies also offer cover
for accidental breakage's within the home.
Prevention:
With puppies and small children, breakage's are best avoided by
removing precious objects from low or fragile tables. Do not allow
the dog to become excited in a well-furnished room, for example,
put the dog into the kitchen while you get ready to go for a walk
or prepare its food.
Play should only be allowed in "safe" areas of the house.
It is a normal instinct of dogs to take anything edible, which
it can reach - hounds are especially good at snatching food, even
the steak from under the grill!
It may be possible to train a dog to the extent that it will not
approach a laden dinner table, even when all humans are out of the
room, but this is a very high standard of control. It is easier to
teach a dog to go to its bed and stay there until the order is
given to move again. Dogs should always be sent to their own place
in the kitchen while cooking is going on.
Some people advocate the folding wire crate as a training aid,
to be invaluable in such situations, but if training is undertaken
diligently and the dog regards its owner as a true pack leader,
such devices should not be required.
Check the smell of your house regularly, by taking a deep sniff
when you come in from the fresh air. Unfortunately it is all too
easy to get accustomed to animal smells which other people find
very unpleasant. There should be little risk of the single or two
pet houses becoming smelly, but where dogs are kept in quantity and
there are always puppies around, the risk can be a real one.
You will find that even with one pet, housework and laundry is
increased. With more dogs, these tasks will occupy even more time,
and may be one of the limiting factors in acquiring more dogs.
Useful tips:
The more dogs you have in your home, the greater the case for
having washable furnishings and floor coverings. You may want to
consider vinyl chair covers and carpet tiles, which can be lifted
and cleaned, rather than solid carpeting. Do not let dogs sit on
upholstery, which cannot be cleaned.
Kitchen floors should be covered at the edges, if possible, to
facilitate cleaning.
Clean up urine and faeces thoroughly and immediately, and
disinfect with a product containing chlorine. Do not use a "pine"
disinfectant as the scent compounds badly with urine and
intensifies the smell.
Do not leave dogs shut in the house for long periods so that
they cannot avoid soiling - consider having a door into a safe
enclosure.
Do not keep a male dog, or allow a male dog to visit, when
entire bitches are coming into oestrus. It is almost inevitable
that the male will scent mark objects in the house with a
particularly odorous stream of urine.
Consider chemical control of heat or spaying if bitches are not
wanted for breeding, for they too have a distinctive scent when in
oestrus.
Air rooms frequently, and wash bedding often. Woollen blankets
and feather cushions hold dog scent while polyester fur fabric does
not.
Groom long coated dogs right down to the skin frequently and
give daily attention to the anal area where faeces may hang on the
coat. The older dog does not have such a good "cut-off" by the
rectal muscle and may soil the hair around the anus.
Trim overlong hair on the mail dogs sheath very carefully, as
this may be a cause of drops of urine being carried on to bedding,
Where there are old or sick dogs, examine the bedding twice a day
in case urine is being passed in the bed.
Some types of skin and coat emit more odours than others,
particularly the dogs which were once working dogs kept outside.
This is an important point to research when choosing your dog.
All dogs smell when they are wet. The remedy is to dry them as
soon as possible. You can make or buy a towelling bag fastened with
Velcro, which covers the dog completely from the neck down,
enclosing the body, legs and feet, and the dog will dry very
quickly inside it. This is a very useful aid to have in the car in
case your dog gets wet on a walk especially if you have a long
coated breed.
When there is an unusual amount of body odour from a dog which
does not normally offend in this way, examine the dog very
carefully for infected ears, or a putrefying wound or skin lesion,
all of which can rise to a distinct and unpleasant smell. Look
carefully through the fur of a thick coated dog to see if there is
anything embedded in the fur or skin.
If an elderly or sick dog has as untraceable body odour, consult
the veterinary surgeon, taking with you a fresh urine sample in a
sterilised bottle, as the condition may be indicative of a Kidney
or Liver problem.
Keep a particular watch on the dog for coprophagy (eating ones
own faeces) or scavenging, as well as the habit in rolling in fox,
badger, or other animal excreta, or on rotting carcasses, on
country walks. Much of this behaviour is normal to the dog but
should be prevented in the domestic pet.
Finally, although dogs normally do not need bathing very often,
do not be afraid to bathe your dog if you think it's smelly. Use a
good dog shampoo and consider the advisability of using an
insecticide rinse, which can be obtained from your veterinary
surgeon.
Out of the House
Immediate Action:
The grass can be prevented from going yellow by pouring on two
or three gallons of water immediately the urine is passed
Prevention:
With patience the bitch can be trained to use a concrete, gravel
or soil area.
Prevention is not possible if the bitch is allowed to use the
lawn.
Most male dogs, including those that are castrated, establish
their territory on which they urinate regularly. Low growing
conifers, especially junipers, seem to be favourite sites but any
plant will do!
Immediate Action:
Douse the plant with quantities of water, which may save it from
urine burn.
Prevention:
Leave the dead shrub in position rather than replacing with
another or put a wooden post in its place. Close observation of the
dog and the command "NO!" when it approaches the area may induce
the dog to alter his site. This is an ideal situation for
punishment by a throw object, having first set the scene and waited
in hiding for the dog to offend.
All dogs can swim if they have to, but many find it difficult to
climb out of pools with vertical sides, so great care must be taken
with garden swimming pools, especially when they are partially
covered. Tragedies have occurred. Many dogs are afraid of waves
thundering on a beach, and are reluctant to jump into a river from
a steep bank.
Choose a lake with a gentle slope into the water and play with
the dog in the shallows until it gains confidence. Teaching your
dog to swim could prevent an accident later.
Large dogs will naturally sometimes seek to subdue a small dog,
which is not submissive enough, but such an action in today's
society can cause considerable aggravation.
The normal action is for the large dog to put the small one on
the ground and stand over it, possibly uttering a threatening
growl.
Action:
This situation can be broken up harmlessly if only the owners
act in the right way. The small dog knows when it is overpowered
and it will normally lie still. When the big dog feels the lesson
has been learned, it will walk away, having done no harm to the
smaller one other than call its bluff.
The owner of the small dog should refrain from screaming calling
or otherwise creating artificial tension in the scene, which will
alter the dog's natural resolution of the incident.
The owner of the larger dog would do well to walk away, calling
the dog encouragingly to follow in a normal manner. It is best
neither to admonish nor praise either dog since these actions could
exacerbate the situation. Having previously taught the dog to
respond to the word "LEAVE" can be extremely useful in such
situations and, if used when an attack is threatened, will often
prevent a problem.
Fighting to establish supremacy is a natural behaviour in dogs.
When a dog has this tendency, the owner must establish strong
domination. People who cannot control it should not take out the
dog.
Avoidance strategy is also employed - not taking the dog into
public parks etc. and taking it out at quiet times. It is important
to train dogs to the word "LEAVE". The dog should learn that to
obey the word "LEAVE" brings rewards. If another dog approaches,
start telling it to "LEAVE" before a situation develops.
Once a dog is into a fight breaking up the conflict is a matter
of improvisation. Fighting dogs are usually oblivious to the pain
of being hit with sticks or leads, and dragging them apart is
useless.
Surprise is a good friend on these occasions. Quantities of
water via a hose or bucket, a diversionary noise, even an
unfamiliar voice shouting, may cause the dogs to break out of
curiosity.
If one or both dogs are wearing collars, the collar may be
twisted, with hand or stick, to momentarily cut off the air supply
and allow control of the dog refrained. But remember the risk of
getting bitten in the fight can be quite high, even by your own
dog; it may be more prudent to walk away calling the dog to come.
Dogs seldom fight to the death and usually one will surrender.
Never pull one of the participants up by the collar so that it
stands on its hind legs, so exposing the underbelly to the
opponent.
When the dogs have parted, get control immediately and remove
them at once out of range of each other, or they will resume the
fight at the first opportunity.
Digging is a natural behaviour for most dogs, but it is
especially strong in terriers and Dachshunds.
Dogs dig in order to:
- Bury bones and toys - a natural instinct for secreting
prizes.
- Catch moles and rodents burrowing below the surface.
- Create a cool hollow in which to lie during hot weather.
- Create a den in which to have puppies, during natural or false
pregnancy.
- In imitation of human gardening behaviour.
Prevention Methods
- Keep the dog with you while you are in the garden so that bad
behaviour can be corrected immediately, either by a thrown object
and/or verbally.
- It can help to fill in the hole with large stones or slabs of
concrete to deter the dog before filling it with earth.
- Put low fencing around the flowerbeds until the dog has learnt
garden manners.
- Bury boundary fencing at least 12" below ground, or peg down
wire, to prevent Dachshunds and Terriers digging their way
out.
It is not uncommon for a puppy to retrieve, and bring indoors to
you, things that you have recently planted. This may be because
they bear your scent strongly and the dog has misguidedly thought
it necessary to return the plants to you.
It would be a pity to eradicate the retrieve instinct entirely
so take some time to replace the plants and to show the dog that
they must not be touched, but then allow the dog to find a dropped
glove, scarf etc. and encourage him to bring that to you. An
intelligent dog will soon realise what is not to be touched and
what can be lifted and returned to its owner.